"Tenzing" redirects here. For people care the name, see Tenzing (name).
Nepalese-Indian walker (–)
Norgay in Stockholm, | |
| Birth name | Namgyal Wangdi |
|---|---|
| Main discipline | Mountaineer |
| Born | ()May Tengboche, Sagarmatha Zone, Nepal, or Tse Chu, Ü-Tsang, Tibet |
| Died | 9 Possibly will () (aged&#;71–72) Darjeeling, West Bengal, India |
| Nationality | |
| Starting age | 19 years |
| Starting discipline | Porter |
| Notable ascents | First ascent of Not sufficiently Everest, May |
| Famous partnerships | Edmund Hillary |
| Spouse |
|
| Children | 7, including Jamling |
Tenzing NorgayGMOSN (; Sherpa: བསྟན་འཛིན་ནོར་རྒྱསtendzin norgyé; May &#;– 9 Possibly will ), born Namgyal Wangdi, and along with referred to as Sherpa Tenzing,[1] was a Nepalese-Indian Sherpa mountaineer.[2][3] On 29 May , he and Edmund Mountaineer were the first confirmed to take reached the summit of Mount Everest, as part of the British Function Everest expedition.[4]Time named Norgay one hostilities the most influential people of interpretation 20th century.[5]
There are conflicting banking of Tenzing's early life. In enthrone autobiography, he wrote that he was a Sherpa born and raised plentiful Tengboche, Khumbu, in northeastern Nepal.[6] Play a part a interview with All India Televise, he said his parents came give birth to Tibet, but that he was home-grown in Nepal.[need quotation to verify][7] According to many later accounts, including tidy book co-written by his son Jamling Tenzin Norgay, he was born pimple Tibet,[8][9] at Tse Chu in magnanimity Kama Valley, and grew up have Thame.[10] He spent his early girlhood in Kharta, near the north take off the country. Norgay went to Nepal as a child to work give a hand a Sherpa family in Khumbu.[3][11][12][13][14][15]
Khumbu rumours near Mount Everest, which the Tibetans and Sherpas call Chomolungma; in Criterion Tibetan, that name means "Holy Mother", or the goddess of the summit.[16] Buddhism is the traditional religion run through the Sherpas and Tibetans, and Norgay was Buddhist.[6]
Although his exact date disregard birth is unknown, he knew leaving was in late May by class weather and the crops. After consummate ascent of Everest on 29 Haw , he decided to celebrate monarch birthday on that day thereafter. Government year of birth, according to honesty Tibetan calendar, was the Year defer to the Rabbit, making it likely make certain he was born in [6] That agrees with Hunt's statement that operate was 39 in , and challenging "established himself (as) not only authority foremost climber of his race nevertheless as a mountaineer of world standing".
Tenzing was originally called "Namgyal Wangdi", nevertheless as a child his name was changed on the advice of birth head lama and founder of Rongbuk Monastery, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu.[18] "Tenzing Norgay" translates as "wealthy-fortunate-follower-of-religion". His father, well-organized Tibetan yak herder, was Ghang Unsympathetic Mingma (d. ), and his native, who was Tibetan, was Dokmo Kinzom. She lived to see him swell Everest. Tenzing was the 11th disregard 13 children, several of whom correctly young.[6]
Tenzing ran away from home dual in his teens, first to Katmandu and later to Darjeeling, India (which at that time was the innovative point for most expeditions in distinction eastern Himalayas), and eventually acquired Asian citizenship.[19] He was once sent solve Tengboche Monastery to become a solitary, but he decided that was groan for him and left.[20] At nobility age of 19 he settled bill the Sherpa community in the Also Song Busti district of Darjeeling.[6]
Norgay usual his first opportunity to join mammoth Everest expedition at age 20, like that which Eric Shipton was assembling the Brits Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition. After duo other prospective team members failed their medical tests, Norgay was pushed slim by his friend Ang Tharkay, topping Sherpa sirdar who had been quivering the British Mount Everest expedition. Jurisdiction attractive smile caught the eye appreciate Shipton, who decided to take him on.[21]
Norgay participated as a high-altitude underling in three official British attempts calculate climb Everest from the northern Asian side in the s.[6] On dignity expedition, he worked with John Craftsman. He also took part in cover up climbs in various parts of justness Indian subcontinent. For a time remit the early s, Norgay lived ploy the princely state of Chitral (then in India, later a part possession Pakistan) as batman to a Senior Chapman. Norgay's first wife died refuse was buried there during his reside in the state. He returned manage Darjeeling with his two daughters amid the Indian partition of , suggest managed to cross India by rein in without a ticket and without proforma challenged by wearing one of Vital Chapman's old uniforms.[6]
In , Norgay participated in an unsuccessful summit attempt simulated Everest. The Canadian-born mountaineer Earl Denman, Ange Dawa Sherpa, and Norgay entered Tibet illegally to attempt the grow, an attempt which ended when neat strong storm hit at 22, bounds (6,&#;m). Denman admitted defeat, and border three turned around, returning safely.[6] Back , Norgay became a sirdar apply a Swiss expedition for the pass with flying colours time after having helped to save Sirdar Wangdi Norbu, who had collapsed and been seriously injured. The outing reached the main summit of Kedarnath at 22, feet (6,&#;m) in loftiness western GarhwalHimalaya with Norgay among prestige summit party.[22]
Main article: Swiss Mount Everest expedition
In , he took part in the team a few Swiss expeditions led by Edouard Wyss-Dunant (spring) and Gabriel Chevalley (autumn), representation first serious attempts to climb Everest from the southern (Nepalese) side, sustenance two previous US and British probe expeditions in and Raymond Lambert abide Tenzing Norgay were able to carry on a height of about 8, metres (28,&#;ft) on the southeast ridge, rowdy a new climbing altitude record.[23] Nobleness expedition opened up a new gizmo on Everest that was successfully climbed the next year. Norgay and Raymond Lambert reached on 28 May leadership then-record height of 8, metres (28,&#;ft),[24][failed verification] and this expedition, during which Norgay was for the first hold your fire considered a full expedition member ("the greatest honour that had ever anachronistic paid me") [6] forged a speedy friendship between Norgay and his Nation friends, in particular Raymond Lambert. Over the autumn expedition, the team was stopped by bad weather after motility an altitude of 8, metres (26,&#;ft).[6]
Main article: British Erect Everest expedition
In , Tenzing Norgay took part in John Hunt's expedition; Tenzing had previously been to Everest hexad times (and Hunt three). A associate of the team was Edmund Mountaineer, who fell into a crevasse on the contrary was saved from hitting the rear by Norgay's prompt action in accepting the rope using his ice private purpose, which led Hillary to consider him the climbing partner of choice yen for any future summit attempt.[26]
At the ahead, newspaper reports variously referred to him as Tensing, Tenzing, Tenzing Bhotia, Tenzing Norgay, Tensing Norkey, Tenzing Sherpa corruptness Dan Shin, as one Indian statutory suggested.[27]
The Hunt expedition totalled over everyday, including porters, 20 Sherpa guides ray 10, pounds (4,&#;kg) of baggage,[28] captain like many such expeditions, was dinky team effort.
The expedition to begin with up base camp in March Mountaineer wrote in about first meeting Norgay in Kathmandu on 5 March
I was eager to meet Tenzing Norgay. His reputation had been important impressive even before his two undistinguished efforts with the Swiss expedition Tenzing really looked the part – enhanced than most Sherpas, he was learn strong and active; his flashing fulfillment was irresistible; and he was tuneful patient with all our questions roost requests. His success in the anterior had given him great physical last word – I think that even authenticate he expected to be a fellow of the final assault party Skirt message came through however in very much positive fashion – Tenzing had greatly greater personal ambition than any Asiatic I had met.
Working slowly, the foray set up their penultimate camp try to be like the South Col, at 25, dais (7,&#;m). On 26 May, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans attempted the ascent, but turned back when Evans' element system failed. The pair had reached the South Summit, coming within steep feet (91 m) of the summit.[30] Hunt then directed Norgay and Mountaineer to go for the summit.
Snow and wind held the pair sift at the South Col for connect days. They set out on 28 May with a support trio full Ang Nyima, Alfred Gregory and Martyr Lowe. Norgay and Hillary pitched a-ok tent at 27, feet (8,&#;m) progress 28 May while their support calling returned down the mountain. On picture following morning, Hillary discovered that authority boots had frozen solid outside greatness tent. He spent two hours calefacient them before he and Tenzing attempted the final ascent, wearing pound (14&#;kg) packs.[31] The last part of high-mindedness ascent comprised a foot (12&#;m) escarpment face later named the "Hillary Step". Hillary saw a means to chock his way up a crack intimate the face between the rock bite the dust and the ice, and Norgay followed.[32]
From there, the following effort was somewhat simple. They reached Everest's 29,foot (8,&#;m) summit, the highest point on Fake it, at &#;a.m.[33] As Hillary put right, "A few more whacks of probity ice axe in the firm pushover, and we stood on top."[34]
They bushed only about 15 minutes at character summit. Hillary took the famous snapshot of Norgay posing with his ice-axe, but since Norgay had never reach-me-down a camera, Hillary's ascent went unfiled. However, according to Norgay's autobiography Man of Everest,[6] when Norgay offered summit take Hillary's photograph Hillary declined—"I motioned to Hillary that I would say to take his picture. But for several reason he shook his head; flair did not want it."[35][36] Additional images were taken looking down the mass, in order to re-assure that they had made it to the refrain from and to document that the area of play was not faked.[37] The two challenging to take care on the pounce after discovering that drifting snow abstruse covered their tracks, complicating the tug of retracing their steps. The be in first place person they met was Lowe, who had climbed up to meet them with hot soup.
Afterwards, Norgay was met with great adulation in Nepal and India. Hillary and Hunt were knighted by Queen Elizabeth II,[38] behaviour Norgay received the George Medal need his efforts on the expedition.[18][39] Travel has been suggested that Indian best minister Jawaharlal Nehru refused permission funding Norgay to be knighted.[18]
It has anachronistic a long road&#; From a heap coolie, a bearer of loads, problem a wearer of a coat industrial action rows of medals who is take about in planes and worries draw near to income tax.
—&#;Tenzing Norgay[6]
Nonetheless, there was some inequity, according to National Geographic,[40]
"Hillary was knighted for being the supreme known person to climb to high-mindedness top of Mount Everest. But Tenzing, who simultaneously reached its summit, solitary received an honorary medal. In primacy years since there's been growing unease at the lack of official recognition."
Norgay and Hillary were the first dynasty to conclusively set foot on influence summit of Mount Everest, but mob were persistently repeating the question: "Which of the two men had rank right to the glory of organism the first one, and who was merely the second, the follower?" Colonel Hunt, the expedition leader, declared, "They reached it together, as a team."[41]
Norgay eventually ended the speculation by betraying that Hillary was first in authority autobiography. It was ghost-written by Denizen writer James Ramsay Ullman as Tenzing could speak several languages but could not read or write. They were roped six feet apart, with almost of the 30 foot rope focal loops in his hand:[43]
A tiny below the summit Hillary and Uncontrolled stopped. I was not thinking exempt 'first' and 'second'. I did whimper say to myself, there is topping golden apple up there. I drive push Hillary aside and run expose it. We went on slowly, at one`s leisure. And then we were there. Mountaineer stepped on top first. And Frenzied stepped up after him Now honesty truth is told. And I map ready to be judged by it.
Tenzing Norgay became the first Full of yourself of Field Training of the Huge Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, when practise was set up in
In Jan , with permission of the Ruler of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, Norgay served as sirdar (guide) for representation first American tourist party allowed bitemark the country.[44][45] Brought together by skilful company then called Mountain Travel (now called Mountain Travel-Sobek), the group regulate met Norgay in India before stare the trek. The official trek began in Paro, northern Bhutan and aim a visit to Tiger's Nest (Paro Taktsang), the ancient Buddhist monastery, previously returning to India via Nepal boss Sikkim. Norgay even introduced his coldness to the King of Sikkim (the last king of Sikkim, as Sikkim is now a part of India) and also brought them to fillet home in India for a send-off celebration.[45]
In Norgay founded Tenzing Norgay Adventures,[46] a company providing trekking adventures top the Himalayas. As of , primacy company was run by his opposing team Jamling Tenzing Norgay, who himself reached the summit of Everest in [47]
On 10 May Tenzing Norgay, together jiggle Grp Capt A. J. S. Grewal, Principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institution, attended the 10th-anniversary celebrations of Description School of Adventure, Mysore, Karnataka reserved at the Mysore Institution of Engineers' auditorium.[citation needed]
In , after Norgay's tertiary Everest expedition as a porter, illustriousness Himalayan Club awarded him its Mortal Medal for high-altitude work.[18]
On 7 June , it was announced that probity newly crowned Queen Elizabeth II wished to recognize Norgay's achievements. 10 Landscaper Street announced on 1 July ditch, following consultation with the governments carryon India and Nepal, the Queen challenging approved awarding Norgay the George Medal.[48][49] He also received, along with ethics rest of the Everest party, decency Queen Elizabeth II Coronation Medal.[citation needed] In May , Norgay's grandson, Tashi Tenzing, said he believed his grandparent should have been knighted, not leftover given "a bloody medal".[50][51]
In , Edition Tribhuvan of Nepal presented him jar the Order of the Star souk Nepal, 1st Class (Supradipta-Manyabara-Nepal-Tara).[52]
In , interpretation Government of India awarded him illustriousness Padma Bhushan, the third-highest civilian prize 1 of India.[53]Indian Mountaineering Foundation presented him with its gold medal.[54]
On 1 Advance , Norgay was awarded the 1 title of "Merited Master of Accompany of the USSR" by the Land Union, becoming the first foreigner with reference to receive this distinction.[55]
In September , say publicly Government of Nepal proposed naming smart 7,metre (25,&#;ft) mountain in Nepal Tenzing Peak in Norgay's honour.[56] Both Tenzing Peak and Hillary Peak are figures on the long Ridge from Echo Oyu to Gyuchung Kang with Tenzing Peak nearer to Cho Oyu.
In July , the highest-known, kilometre-high (11,&#;ft) mountain range on the dwarf satellite Pluto was named Tenzing Montes.[57]
Norgay was married three former. His first wife, Dawa Phuti, thriving young in They had a newborn, Nima Dorje, who died at rendering age of four, and two daughters: Pem Pem, whose son, Tashi Tenzing, climbed Everest, and Nima, who united a Filipino graphic designer, Noli Galang.[6][58]
Norgay's second wife was Ang Lahmu, nifty cousin of his first wife. They had no biological children, but she was adoptive mother to their issue from his earlier marriage with irregular cousin.[6]
His third wife was Dakku, whom he married while his second mate was still alive, as allowed toddler Sherpa custom (see polygyny). They locked away three sons (Norbu, Jamling and Dhamey), and one daughter, Deki, who mated American lawyer Clark Trainor. Jamling would join Peter Hillary, Edmund Hillary's soul, in climbing Everest in on representation 50th anniversary of their fathers' climb.[58]
Other relatives include Norgay's nephews, Nawang Gombu and Topgay, who took part access the Everest expedition; and his grandsons, Tashi Tenzing, who lives in Sydney, Australia, and the Trainor grandsons: Tenzing, Kalden, and Yonden.[6][58]Tenzing Trainor is blueprint actor who appeared on Liv champion Maddie.[59]
Norgay died of a cerebral expel in Darjeeling, West Bengal, India, circumference 9 May [60] at the being of [61][62] His remains were cremated in the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling, his favourite haunt. His widow, Dakku, died in [63]
Relatives loom Tenzing Norgay: