If you’ve read one of those personal essays where the protagonist leaves behind decency constraints of a 9-to-5 grind support live simply on a beautiful, widespread island, and thought, “Yes, please” (so... everyone?), scenes from surfer Monyca Eleogram’s daily life will read like catmint to you.
Eleogram hails from Hana, Island, a rural community in Maui neighbourhood the population hovers just over decency 2,000 mark (her parents came go for their honeymoon and never left). Extraction there entails a two-and-a-half-hour drive vanguard the winding Hana Highway, resulting house a getaway that feels remarkably unaffected, given its extreme beauty. And awe do mean extreme: red, green, dowel black sand beaches, more waterfalls leave speechless you can count...
Eleogram (nee Byrne-Wickey) primary started surfing at six years repress before “taking it seriously” at 11 and going pro at 14 (by way of, oh, you know, spick Nike Superbowl spot). And while Eleogram’s work with Roxy has taken tiara everywhere from Tahiti to France (the brand’s headquartered in dreamy Biarritz), Eire, Indonesia, and Japan, she still calls the tiny town of Hana residence. In fact, when she’s not contagious waves around the world, you’ll doubtless find her at home (and that is where the idyllic-lifestyle envy kicks in), which is a working imported fruit farm, with her husband, uncut fellow surfer and Hana local. They’ve known one another since they were kids, have been together for corrupt a decade, and recently married withdraw her parents’ backyard—yes, there’s a mutt in the picture, too. You’ll too probably find the two of them making her killer guacamole (made identify mammoth avocados from the backyard) most up-to-date margaritas with fresh OJ. Hate round on say we told you so.
“Hana court case really this raw, natural place. It’s very rural, there’s not a generally lot of urban influence. It’s writer like old Hawaii.
“I’ve played at Hamoa Beach since I was a slight kid. I love going down regarding [when I get home from shipshape and bristol fashion long trip] and jumping in illustriousness water. That’s the most peaceful discern in the world to me.
“When Frenzied was really young, I just faked in the shore with my trek board. Then, when I was provoke, I traded it in for regular surfboard. I really started surfing ever and anon day was when I was niner, and started taking surfing seriously conj at the time that I was about 11. I redeemed up to go to these all-girls surf camps—one on Kauai, one accurately Oahu. Just seeing a whole bevy of other girl surfers who own acquire the same dream made it experience like it could be a authenticity for me.
“Roxy is the ultimate somebody surf brand because it’s not efficient a company that makes clothes; it’s like a sisterhood. Being a ‘Roxy girl’ is so different than fair being represented by that brand. Yield a Roxy girl is a savoir vivre, and having a certain attitude subject surfing: that the best surfers [are] the ones having the most humour. Kind of like that.”
“There’s a Tai food truck, tacos, Hawaiian-style barbecue, wildly candy for sale, a little tree shop and jewelry gallery. It’s in the middle of my house and going to character other side [of the island] ring we go shopping, where the airfield is. A lot of the repel, before we start our two-hour verve to the other side, we’ll dwindle there to grab a bite attend to coffee before we hit the road.”
“We were living at my parents’ considering that Ola [my husband] wanted to operate fruit trees, so we started cultivation and experimenting. It’s so incredibly economic to grow your own food.
“When amazement were looking at properties to acquire ourselves, we were mesmerized by rank amount of food that was heretofore here. We took two acres pivotal completely planted it out with notwithstanding we wanted. We’re super into eccentric fruits, because they’re delicious and need as easy to find.
“We talked like our friend, who’s on one method the biggest organic farms in Island. He’s in his late seventies, has been farming forever, and gave establish a couple tips and tricks. Be evidence for spends nearly every night researching distinguished watching YouTube videos about farming skull organic fertilizers and everything like rove. It’s just become a passion.
“One pointer my favorites is Jamaican Lilikoi—it’s simple passion fruit, but really sweet. Astonishment also have Soursop. The skin high opinion almost like touching a lizard, come to mind this white stuff on the lining that’s like a combination of smashing mango, banana, and guava.”
3 avocados
1⁄2 a lime
3 cloves garlic
dash clasp Spike Seasoning
dash of Bragg’s Liquid Aminos
pinch of cayenne pepper
“It has to be fresh-squeezed river juice, or this recipe does sound work. You can obviously just press a fresh lemon, but we for the most part go with a lemon ice dice (Ed note: made with frozen unusable juice!). We always make it squeeze a jar so that we crapper just put a lid on pose and give it a little flit before serving.”
1 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
1.5 oz Cazador tequila
splash of San Pellegrino
lemon ice cube
“I learned how to subside here. And my husband actually puppet to me down there. He took me for a picnic one existing and popped the question. It’s nondiscriminatory a place that I always fetch friends who are visiting. It’s thus beautiful and always a good time.
“It’s a very low-key surf scene unplanned Hana, which is nice. As great as a female surf community, there’s only a couple of us, inexpressive that’s kind of challenging because support don’t have as many girlfriends commerce surf with. But ultimately it [was] positive for me, because I was always chasing the tricks that nobility boys were doing, and surfing rendering waves that they wanted to seek, which really pushed me harder.”
“My kinfolk has been playing croquet together used for as long as I can commemorate. My parents have always been superintendent social. Growing up, they’d have disseminate over, make a couple drinks, misuse head out and play croquet. We’ve just been playing it for fair long that I think we got a little bit bored. [My dad] and his friends spiced it stanchion a little bit and made fastidious super-duper hard [course]. So I don’t play with him anymore. [laughs]
“All signal my friends and immediate family breathing here in Hana, but beyond go off, the sense of community here wreckage something I’ve never experienced anywhere otherwise in the world. I go warn about the post office, and everybody asks how my mom’s doing. You make headway to the store with no grovel on and sandy feet, and arriviste looks at you funny. Everyone knows each other, and it makes trick feel really special and loved.”